Proper grooming requires the right brush for your dog’s coat. Although there are many different shapes and sizes, there are basically three different brush types.

Bristle Brush
Bristle brushes come in a wide variety of styles. A bristle brush is best used on short-coated dogs for everyday grooming and to remove surface dust and dirt. On a long-coated dog a bristle brush can be used to finish the coat and bring out its natural luster and shine. Longer, widely-spaced bristles are better for dogs with longer coats, while shorter, tightly-packed bristles are made for short-haired dogs.

Pin Brush
Pin brushes have metal bristles set in a flexible rubber base. They are available in different pin lengths for a variety of coat lengths, textures and fullness. Pin brushes work well on dogs with medium to long hair or those with silky, curly, or woolly coats. Flexible pin brushes are also perfect for pets with thin coats and/or sensitive skin. Pin brushes work great to separate and untangle. Make sure you get a brush that has polished pins or coated pins so the brush doesn’t scratch and irritate your dog’s skin.

Slicker Brush
Slicker brushes have fine wire bristles with pins that are bent at an angle approximately halfway down the pin. Slicker Dog Brushes are available in a variety of sizes and degrees of pin stiffness. The heavier and thicker the coat, the stiffer the pins should be.
A slicker dog brush is usually used on long-coated dogs and are especially useful for removing mats and tangles.

Combs

Useful for combing out hair after detangling. There are different designs depending on your breed’s size and coat length. Medium/Coarse Combs are for breeds with medium-length hair or a coat that may require a gentle touch.

In the past it was thought that frequent bathing of your dog would damage the coat. The fact is, the skin and hair of the normal puppy is biochemically very similar to that of a human. Both human and puppy skin and hair are comprised of protein with oil as a lubricant. Most modern dog shampoos enable you to bathe your dog as often as desired, even daily. The average puppy probably could use a weekly bath. This not only helps control odor by removing excessive dander, oil, and bacteria, but also is hygienic in helping to prevent dirt-related skin infections.

Introducing your dog to bathing

If your puppy is not already used to being bathed, your should introduce bathing in a few steps over the span of a week or so. This helps avoid a situation where there bathing process becomes a traumatic experience (for the both of you!)
Step 1: In the tub without water: Put your dog in the tub a few times day. Give him treats and lots of praise while he’s there. Don’t make a fuss over him when he climbs back out since you want to make being in the tub the fun part. Gradually increase the time your dog stays in the bath to get the treat.

Step 2: Introduce running water: Once your dog readily gets in the bath, start running the water without wetting him. Reinforce with treats and praise.

Step 3: Getting wet: Next, wet your dog with the shower head. Start from the back and work your way forward. Make sure the first few times are short, and don’t forget to praise and give a treat.

What You’ll Need

Two towels by the shower or tub
Dog shampoo & conditioner
A rubber mat in the tub or shower (use a towel if your don’t have a rubber mat) so that your dog will feel secure, and won’t slip
A brush and comb

If you have back problems , you might consider a booster dog bath. A booster bath is a professional-type dog bath tub that’s elevated with high sides and a built-in leash restraint to keep your dog in place.

First, brush

Before beginning, always brush and comb your dog thoroughly to eliminate dead hair, knots and mats. This can’t be stressed enough!

Brushing and combing before the bath has three purposes.
First, it loosens dirt, dander and foreign matter.
Second, it removes hair shed and removed mats and tangles. All of the dead, shedding fur has to be removed from the coat and undercoat. Don’t expect a conditioner to remove the mats, because it won’t. In fact, the dirt and shampoo will remain in the mats, creating more of a problem by making the mats tighter. This can also cause skin problems or make matters worse if problems already exist.
Third, it stimulates the skin and allows natural hair oils to circulate.

Also, brushing and combing brings focus to the dog’s body and for example, scabs, cuts, sores and various skin conditions hidden by medium or longer coats can be discovered by being observant during brushing and combing procedures.
If you have a long-coated breed using an anti static-spray or grooming spray helps prevent hair breakage.

Then, Bathe

First, place a rubber mat in the tub or sink. Dogs don’t have the best traction in tubs, especially with soapy paws. Use a bath mat to keep your dog from slipping and getting.
Wet the hair coat thoroughly all the way to the skin. Use warm but not hot water. Next rub in shampoo (keeping suds away from eyes). Rinse with warm water (trying not to get water in your dog’s ear canals). Make sure to remove all the shampoo.
Using your hands, squeeze the excess water from the dog, paying particular attention to ears, tail and legs. Run your hands down your dog’s body to “squeegee” water from the rest of the coat. Cover your dog with a towel.

If your dog is short coated, you can rub the coat to absorb excess moisture. However, long haired dogs should have their coats squeezed, not rubbed, to avoid tangles. Use as many towels as are needed to get your dog to the “damp-dry” stage

At normal room temperature, it is fine to simply let the puppy air dry once the excess water has been removed with a towel. If a hair dryer is used, be sure to set it on a cool (not warm or hot!) setting.

Skin

You can check your dog’s body and coat to make sure there are no stones or burs caught between his toes, in his ears, mouth or skin. You will be able to check your dog closely for any problems while grooming. Move the hair aside and examine the skin closely for signs of fleas, ticks or skin irritations. Look at her skin to see that it looks healthy and doesn’t have any sore spots.

Coat

Brushing your dog is the best thing you can learn to help your dog stay healthy. Look for any unusual problems with the coat such as mats, tangles, dandruff, etc. Mats and tangles can be carefully removed while grooming. Brush in the same direction that the hair goes. Don’t forget to brush everywhere, especially behind the ears, on his stomach, and on his tail and back legs. Brushing the coat has similar effects on puppies as adult dogs in that it cleans the coat, removes loose hair, and stimulates the oil glands of the skin. At this age, the puppy will see the brushing as just another form of petting. Get them used to it now so they will let you do the same when they are adults. Reading about your particular breed will help you to know how to brush your dog correctly.

Teeth

You should buy special toothpaste for dogs and with a toothbrush, brush your dog’s side teeth. Most dogs like the taste of the toothpaste. Brushing your dog’s teeth once or twice a week will help keep teeth clean and the breath fresh

Nails

There are several styles of nail trimmers, including a guillotine type and a scissors type.  If your dog does not like having his/her nails trimmed you might consider a nail trimmer which will file the nails istead of cutting them.
If you cut too short and the nail bleeds, place a tiny piece of tissue paper tightly against the end of the nail and hold it for a few minutes. Better yet, have some Quick Stop Powder available and put a small amount up against the bleeding end of the nail to stop the bleeding right away. If you do nothing the bleeding will stop in about 5 to 7 minutes.

Despite the popular conception, dog biscuits and bones alone are not enough to it does not prevent the buildup of plaque and tartar. Canine teeth also need regular brushing, this is especially important for especially for smaller dogs. In smaller dogs, the bone that holds the teeth is thinner so gum disease can be more of a problem.

Common Canine Dental Problems

Oral disease is the number one health problem diagnosed in dogs. Periodontitis, or periodontal disease, is the most common dental problem. It is caused by plaque, a mixture of bacteria and food debris forming forms a on the teeth and gums. As plaque gets into pockets under the gumline, bacteria eats away at the bone that holds the teeth (called resorption of the bone).
If plaque is not removed, minerals in the saliva combine with the plaque and form tartar (or calculus) which can stick to the teeth like cement. Plaque starts to mineralize 3-5 days after it forms.

If the tartar is not removed, it builds up under the gums. It separates the gums from the teeth to form “pockets” and encourages even more bacterial growth. At this point the damage is irreversible, and called “periodontal” disease. It can be very painful and can lead to loose teeth, abscesses, and bone loss or infection. As bacterial growth continues to increase, the bacteria may enter the bloodstream. This can cause infection of the heart valves (endocarditis), liver, and kidneys. If treated by your veterinarian with special instruments and procedures, periodontal disease can be slowed or stopped.

Gingivitis, or gum disease, is an inflammation of the gum tissue. It does not affect the deeper structures of the teeth. Without treatment, gingivitis can lead to periodontitis, bone loss, loosening of the teeth, and eventually loss of teeth.

Tooth fractures. The second biggest problem for dogs and their teeth is that hard chews can break the teeth, leading to infection inside the tooth (called endodontic disease). Dogs can break their teeth surprisingly easily, just from crunching down on hard rocks, cow hooves, and other tough substances.

Preventing dog dental problems

You can prevent periodontal disease by eliminating plaque before it becomes tartar. The best way to do this is through brushing your dog’s teeth. This reduces the amount of bacteria in the mouth, which also has the added benefit of keeping your dog’s breath smelling sweeter. Try to brush your dog’s teeth every day.

Toothpaste. Brush your dog’s teeth with toothpaste made for dogs. People toothpaste is designed for people to spit out. Dogs can’t do that, so you need to use one that’s safe for the dog to swallow.

Toothbrush: Introducing a toothbrush is a process of building confidence and trust. Gentle encouragement works best. One way of getting your dog used to a toothbrush is to take some garlic salt, mix it with water, and dip an old toothbrush into it. Hold the brush, and let your dog lick or chew the brush. The dog will realize that a toothbrush is good and that it tastes good. You can do this a few times so the dog won’t be scared of the brushing process, and will let you brush daily.

Dogs’ teeth touch only in one or two places, and their teeth are narrow. A toothbrush reaches 90% of the area that needs to be cleaned. The toothbrush doesn’t always reach the teeth that are farthest back in the dog’s mouth, but this is not the most important area. Chewing on a cotton rope bone can help clean those back teeth.

Finger brush. Instead of using a toothbrush, you can use a finger brush. A toothbrush is better, but a finger brush is a good alternative. It fits onto your fingertip and lets you brush your dog’s teeth almost without your dog knowing it. The drawback of using a finger brush is that the bristles are a bit too large to get under the margin of the gumline as effectively as a regular toothbrush.

Mouthwash. There are two sprays on the market that work very well to help kill bacteria in the mouth and may actually heal damaged gum tissue.

Professional cleaning: Another important part of making sure that your dog’s teeth and gums are clean is to have the teeth professionally cleaned by your veterinarian. A veterinarian will anesthetize your dog, scrape all of the plaque buildup from above and below the gumline, and then polish the teeth.

Home checkup: Get in the habit of looking in your dog’s mouth to check for broken or cracked teeth.

Summary of tips on brushing your dog’s teeth:

• Start dental care when your dog is a puppy. For older dogs, be patient. You can slowly acclimate your older dog to a teeth-cleaning regimen.
• Use a toothbrush designed for dogs.
• Use a specially formulated pet toothpaste, in flavors such as chicken and other tastes your dog prefers. Pet toothpastes will not upset your pet’s stomach and may make brushing a pleasant experience.
• Pay close attention to the upper molars and canines.
• Brush in short sessions.

Before you start to clean your dog’s ears, check his/her ears for hairs blocking the ear canal, if necessary, pluck out the hairs blocking the ear canal.
Next, remove any excess wax by using a special ear-cleaner. Do not use powders as they can increase problems. Try not to rub too vigorously or too often, as wax is produced partly to stop irritation, therefore, your dog still needs some wax in his/her ear, so, too much cleaning causes irritation. If you are using cotton buds never let the tip of the cotton bud go out of sight, it may be easier to use cotton wool .

When you come to cleaning your dog’s ears apply the cleaner first, then massage his/her ears to spread the liquid around look to see if any excess liquid has come to the surface, and finally, remove it either by using cotton wool,. If your dog doesn’t seem to be in distress continue cleaning until no more wax comes up. If you are still not happy, call your vet.