Many dogs are home alone for hours each day. This time alone can be very difficult for some, symptoms of separation anxiety, boredom and loneliness are not uncommon. Before you leave for the day, try giving your dog some treat filled Kong dog chew toys, this can keep him occupied for hours.

Choosing the Kong chew toy that’s right for your dog?
1) Select your dog’s chewing temperament. Red for typical or black for power chewer. There is also aqua for puppies and purple for senior dogs.
2) Select the appropriate sized Kong from the based on your dog’s weight.
(If you’re selecting a Kong for stuffing and you have a small dog, Kong recommends using a medium sized Kong chew toy rather than the small one).

Getting your dog aquainted with kongs
If Kong dog chew toys are new to your dog, remember that it is very important that your dog succeeds at getting the dog treats. In the beginning make it easy for your dog to remove the filling. Slowly increase the challenge for example by freezing a treat filled Kong.

Filling the Kong
Anything that you would normally feed your dog can be used in a Kong chew toy. Try mixing crunchy bits of dry dog food with softer foods like peanut butter, cheese, meat, mashed potatoes, yogurt, scramble egg, rice or canned dog food. The list is endless - just make sure you fill it with foods that your dog really loves. Your dog will happily work at the task for hours on end. Homemade fillings are the best.

There are many recipe ideas and different ways to fill Kong dog chew toys. The simplest recipes start by combining all the ingredients into a gooey mixture that you spoon into the Kong. A more advanced technique is to layer different fillings… so as the hours pass the tasty rewards change.You may even want to try putting your dog’s most favorite treat in first, so that the final part of the excavation could be your dog’s grand prize.

Try filling a Kong dog toy with cheese and pieces other treats, and then heat it in the microwave. This will bind the pieces together and add to your dog’s challenge. Always remember to let the Kong cool before giving it to your dog. Another way to increase the challenge is by plugging the larger hole after you fill the Kong. You can use a piece of fruit, dog treats, peanut butter, a piece of carrot or anything else that will plug the hole - making your dog work a little harder to get the filling out.

In the warmer weather try filling your dog’s Kong chew toy and freezing it. It will take your dog much longer to get it all cleaned out if it is frozen. Your dog will really appreciate this type of cool treat on a hot summer day. If you are using a liquid filling, start by stuffing the small hole with a treat. Depending on how much liquid you use… you may want to reserve this treat for outdoor fun since it can get a little messy as it melts.

Cleaning your dog’s Kong toys
It is important to clean your dog’s Kong before refilling. Yes, Kong dog chew toys are dishwasher safe.
If you don’t have a dishwasher just soak the Kong is warm soapy water to loosen any food residue and rinse thoroughly.

Types of brushes

Although there are many different shapes and sizes, there are basically three different brush types.

Bristle Brush
Bristle brushes come in a wide variety of styles. A bristle brush is best used on short-coated dogs for everyday grooming and to remove surface dust and dirt. On a long-coated dog a bristle brush can be used to finish the coat and bring out its natural luster and shine. Longer, widely-spaced bristles are better for dogs with longer coats, while shorter, tightly-packed bristles are made for short-haired dogs.

Pin Brush
Pin brushes have metal bristles set in a flexible rubber base. They are available in different pin lengths for a variety of coat lengths, textures and fullness. Pin brushes work well on dogs with medium to long hair or those with silky, curly, or woolly coats. Flexible pin brushes are also perfect for pets with thin coats and/or sensitive skin. Pin brushes work great to separate and untangle. Make sure you get a brush that has polished pins or coated pins so the brush doesn’t scratch and irritate your dog’s skin.

Slicker Brush
Slicker brushes have fine wire bristles with pins that are bent at an angle approximately halfway down the pin. Slicker Dog Brushes are available in a variety of sizes and degrees of pin stiffness. The heavier and thicker the coat, the stiffer the pins should be.
A slicker dog brush is usually used on long-coated dogs and are especially useful for removing mats and tangles.

Combs

Useful for combing out hair after detangling. There are different designs depending on your breed’s size and coat length. Medium/Coarse Combs are for breeds with medium-length hair or a coat that may require a gentle touch.

1. Plan ahead for all travel arrangements
If you are planning to fly with your pet, you should make reservations at least 2-3 months prior to your journey as many airlines limit the number of pets flying on each plane (both in the cabin and in the hold).
Many accommodations do not accept pets and some that do have only a limited number of rooms available to pet owners, so do some research and book well in advance. Guide books and hotel directories are a great resource, but pet policies change often so you should always verify the current policy. If your pets will be staying with you in your room here are some of the questions you should ask when making your reservation:
Do you accept pets?
Are there any pet fees or deposits? Are they per pet or per room? Are they daily or one time only? Is the deposit refundable?
Am I limited to certain type rooms?
Are there any areas that I can’t go with my pet?
Do you offer anything special for pets?

2. Make sure all the paperwork is in order
Make certain that all vaccinations are up to date and that all paperwork is in order. You will be required to have these if your pet is traveling by air. Also, you may need to board your pet unexpectedly and many kennels will not accept pets without these certificates. And, if your pet does require emergency medical care, these will allow this to take place much more quickly. Bring along your vet’s phone number-it’s a lot easier (and cheaper) to call your vet with a non-emergency concern than to try to find a local vet who doesn’t know your dogs.

3. Make sure your dog can be identified if lost
Many pets become separated from their people while traveling and often collars are not on pets when they are recovered at shelters. Seriously consider having your pet microchipped - animal hospitals, humane societies and kennels nationwide are using scanners that will read these implanted chips and let you be reunited with your lost pet. Microchip procedures are safe, quick and very common. Your veterinarian can tell you more about this procedure.

Your pet should wear a secure collar at all times with tags showing your name, address, and phone number in case your pet becomes separated. Make a set of temporary paper tags with the address and phone number at your destination.

4. Start your trip with a clean, healthy pet
Be honest about your pet’s ability to travel. If your pet is very old, or is ill, it may be better for all concerned to look into a pet sitter or kennel rather than take a chance on injuring your pet by taking it with you. If you are in doubt, ask your veterinarian.

Check in with your veterinarian at least one week before you begin your trip to be sure your pet is healthy and all vaccinations are current. Your vet can also alert you to any special problems that may exist in the area you are planning to visit. If your pet becomes carsick or restless when traveling, ask your veterinarian about appropriate medications or treatments.

Wash your dog, clip the nails, brush the teeth, clean the ears ; in short give your dog a full grooming so that you start your vacation with a spotless dog!

5. Things to bring
A leash.
An extra collar.
An old blanket or sheet for the back seat of your car or wherever the pet’s carrier will be secured to make cleanup easier.
Two old sheets to cover bedding and furniture at your destination.
Your pet’s bed or carrier with some of your pet’s bedding
Food. If you do not feed a brand you are certain will be available at your destination and along the way, bring enough for the whole trip. If you feed canned, bring a can opener and spoon.
Bottle of water to give during the trip
Food & water bowl set.
Portable water bowl or bottle for use when away from your lodging.
Treats and toys or chew items.
All required medications
First aid kit, including tweezers to remove foreign objects from fur or paws.
Brush or comb.
Baby wipes or moist towelettes to wipe off paws.
Waste removal bags.
Old towels, carpet cleaner, disinfectant spray, and trash bags for accidents.

6. While You’re Traveling
Try to create a traveling environment that is as “close to home” as possible.
This means trying to feed your dog the same food at approximately the same time you feed her at home. Bring your dog’s bed, or if you pet sleeps in a crate at home, bring it along.
Keep fresh water available for your pet at all times.
Avoid sudden changes of diet. If you are unable to obtain your pet’s normal brand, switch gradually over to the new food over a period of four or more days.
Obey all leash laws and make certain to keep your pet on a leash or in a carrier at all times when not securely in a room.
Clean up after your dog-please! No one actually likes this task but it is necessary. The more people pick up after their dogs, the more welcome all dogs will in public places.

Preparation: Check airlines’ requirements
There are certain legal guidelines and restrictions for pet air travel. The airlines themselves have varying regulations, so always contact airlines well in advance to get specific information about procedures, requirements and charges. Keep in mind also that rules may change, so ensure you have up-to-date information.

Airlines may have any of the following transportation options for your pet: in cabin, checked baggage, or as cargo. Regardless of which option will be used for your pet, reservations are required well in advance as each flight can only transport a certain number of animals in each cabin class and cargo hold. These capacities vary by airline and aircraft

If you are traveling with a puppy or small dog many airlines allow you to bring your dog in the cabin as “carry-on” luggage, provided the dog is in an airline approved pet carrier. The general rule is one dog per person. You must be on the same flight as your pet and the carrier in which the pet is to travel must fit entirely under the seat in front of you. The size and weight limitation varies and weight restrictions may also apply. Make sure you have an acceptable crate or bag and that your dog does not exceed the weight limit.

When booking let the airline know the your dog’s size, weight, and health as well as the type and size of carrier. Be sure to reconfirm with the airline 24-48 hours before departure that you will be bringing your pet.

Selecting a airline carrier
There are a variety of different types and styles of dog carriers that are approved by airlines, including kennel-type carriers, totes, and in-between. Some of the carry-on approved airline carriers are similar to handbags and are obviously intended for only the smallest of dogs. Others include the kind that look similar to a duffel bag, but have breathable mesh or netting so that your dog is as safe as they would be in a traditional dog carrier.

When selecting a carrier for airline travel consider the following:
Size: Airlines approve dog carriers to be checked as carry-ons only if they are small enough to fit under the seat in front of the traveler.
Safety: Strong, durable high-impact shell and windows to let in fresh air when rolled down
Easy of carrying - Lightweight and balanced, with handle and padded shoulder strap for carrying
Easy of use - Removable and washable bedding
Practical extra features: Some have shoulder straps that detaches to serve as a leash

Before you leave
Take a care kit in your carry on - bottled tap water from your home, baby wipes (good for accidents or when something ‘comes up’), and a cookie or treat.

Prepare your dog for its journey by reducing the quantity of food (not water) the day before flying. You will also want to give your dog a light meal a few hours before check-in. A heavy meal might make your pet sick during the trip. Walk your dog before leaving for the airport and then again before check in.
Take your dog for a walk before you place it in its carrier so that it may relieve itself.

Make certain that your pet is wearing a collar with identification in case it escapes. If traveling in cargo the safest type of collar for air travel is a paper collar you make yourself from a strip of paper and tape with identification written on the paper. This will prevent your pet from accidentally strangling itself in its collar. Never muzzle your pet as its ability to breathe and regulate its temperature by panting will be severely restricted.

Make certain to have a leash or harness with you as most airports will require that the pet be removed from the carrier at the security screening checkpoint so that the carrier may be sent through the x-ray machine. Your pet will not be allowed out of the carrier during the flight.

Stainless steel dog bowls

Traditional stainless steel bowls are economical, durable, long lasting and are great if your dog tends to nibble on her bowl! Look for bowls with a rubber rim that will keep them from tipping and getting nosed around. They are easy to clean and are the easiest to sanitize, which is why they are the choice of many veterinarians.

Ceramic dog bowls

Ceramic bowls are sturdy, come in a wide variety of colors and designs, you can even get them personalized. Often they come in handy sets with treat jars as well. Ceramic bowls and crocks are good for dogs that like to move their bowls around. Since ceramic is the heaviest of materials used for feeding bowls, your dog will eat her food without moving across the floor at the same time. These bowls are very durable and long lasting, unless of course your drop them. Because they are very porous, it is critical that they be cleaned and sanitized daily. It is recommended that a cracked ceramic dish be replaced because it is likely to harbor bacteria in the cracks.

Plastic dog bowls

Plastic and ceramic dog bowls come in an array of colors and often have decorative patterns.
Plastic bowls come in a variety of colors and are lightweight, unbreakable, and economical. Plastic bowls are not for dogs that tend to chew on their bowls, as small fragments of plastic could be chewed off and swallowed.

Raised dog feeders

Raised dog feeders not only feature some really eye-catching designs, they also help in digestion, since your dog stands up straighter to eat. This type is also good for older pets with joint or arthritic problems to dine from.

Travel dog bowls

If you’d like to bring your dog with you when you’re on the go, there are several different types and styles of travel bowls available, from collapsible nylon bowls that are light weight and take up minimal space to portable raised feeders.

Accessories

Placemats

Don’t forget the placemats that go under the dishes, it makes cleanup a little easier.

Food Storage

Finally, when considering bowls for your dog to eat and drink from, don’t forget about a storage container and scoop if your dog eats dry food. Keeping the food in a container with a lid extends the life of the food, reduces the breakdown of vitamins, and maintains freshness.

In the past it was thought that frequent bathing of your dog would damage the coat. The fact is, the skin and hair of the normal puppy is biochemically very similar to that of a human. Both human and puppy skin and hair are comprised of protein with oil as a lubricant. Most modern dog shampoos enable you to bathe your dog as often as desired, even daily. The average puppy probably could use a weekly bath. This not only helps control odor by removing excessive dander, oil, and bacteria, but also is hygienic in helping to prevent dirt-related skin infections.

Introducing your dog to bathing

If your puppy is not already used to being bathed, your should introduce bathing in a few steps over the span of a week or so. This helps avoid a situation where there bathing process becomes a traumatic experience (for the both of you!)
Step 1: In the tub without water: Put your dog in the tub a few times day. Give him treats and lots of praise while he’s there. Don’t make a fuss over him when he climbs back out since you want to make being in the tub the fun part. Gradually increase the time your dog stays in the bath to get the treat.

Step 2: Introduce running water: Once your dog readily gets in the bath, start running the water without wetting him. Reinforce with treats and praise.

Step 3: Getting wet: Next, wet your dog with the shower head. Start from the back and work your way forward. Make sure the first few times are short, and don’t forget to praise and give a treat.

What You’ll Need

Two towels by the shower or tub
Dog shampoo & conditioner
A rubber mat in the tub or shower (use a towel if your don’t have a rubber mat) so that your dog will feel secure, and won’t slip
A brush and comb

If you have back problems , you might consider a booster dog bath. A booster bath is a professional-type dog bath tub that’s elevated with high sides and a built-in leash restraint to keep your dog in place.

First, brush

Before beginning, always brush and comb your dog thoroughly to eliminate dead hair, knots and mats. This can’t be stressed enough!

Brushing and combing before the bath has three purposes.
First, it loosens dirt, dander and foreign matter.
Second, it removes hair shed and removed mats and tangles. All of the dead, shedding fur has to be removed from the coat and undercoat. Don’t expect a conditioner to remove the mats, because it won’t. In fact, the dirt and shampoo will remain in the mats, creating more of a problem by making the mats tighter. This can also cause skin problems or make matters worse if problems already exist.
Third, it stimulates the skin and allows natural hair oils to circulate.

Also, brushing and combing brings focus to the dog’s body and for example, scabs, cuts, sores and various skin conditions hidden by medium or longer coats can be discovered by being observant during brushing and combing procedures.
If you have a long-coated breed using an anti static-spray or grooming spray helps prevent hair breakage.

Then, Bathe

First, place a rubber mat in the tub or sink. Dogs don’t have the best traction in tubs, especially with soapy paws. Use a bath mat to keep your dog from slipping and getting.
Wet the hair coat thoroughly all the way to the skin. Use warm but not hot water. Next rub in shampoo (keeping suds away from eyes). Rinse with warm water (trying not to get water in your dog’s ear canals). Make sure to remove all the shampoo.
Using your hands, squeeze the excess water from the dog, paying particular attention to ears, tail and legs. Run your hands down your dog’s body to “squeegee” water from the rest of the coat. Cover your dog with a towel.

If your dog is short coated, you can rub the coat to absorb excess moisture. However, long haired dogs should have their coats squeezed, not rubbed, to avoid tangles. Use as many towels as are needed to get your dog to the “damp-dry” stage

At normal room temperature, it is fine to simply let the puppy air dry once the excess water has been removed with a towel. If a hair dryer is used, be sure to set it on a cool (not warm or hot!) setting.

Puppy proofing your home

Toy puppies might not be able to chew their way through a whole lot of surfaces, but they can bite enough to do a fair amount of damage on your home and furniture. Puppy-proofing your home before the puppy arrives is a must.

Electrical cords and wires are especially hazardous and need to be out of reach (You can purchase cord runners at a home improvement store) or taped to walls, as a teething puppy could electrocute himself while chewing on an electrical cord.

Keep small objects out of your puppy’s reach. Puppies like to chew and can easily swallow things like coins and jewelry, and keep your books, shoes and clothing out of harm’s way.

Replace potentially toxic plants with fake plants or non-toxic ones. Some plants which may be a danger are carnations, daffodils, eucalyptus, and azalea.

Place baby gates in front of stairs. Puppies can be clumsy and fall.

Bitter-tasting liquids can be helpful to apply to your furniture.

Provide plenty of chew toys

Provide your pup with appropriate chew toys, something that is not going to be swallowed and cause intestinal blockages. Choose an assortment of toys of all textures, including plenty of chew toys and bones that are soft and hard. Excellent chew toys and wonderful for the teething period are Kongs. Kongs come in a variety of sizes and designs. They are made of tough rubber and can be filled with goodies. You can purchase ready-made fillings for your dog’s Kong or you can create your own tasty recipes that your dog is sure to love.

Remember that dogs need to chew throughout their lives, dogs instinctively chew on things. But, it’s probably safe to assume that you would rather have your dog chew on designated dog toys rather than on your valuable household items or cherished possessions, so provide even your adult dog with an assortment of chew toys. Providing irresistible treat-filled Kong chew toys will engage your dog for hours.

Crates and kennels vary in size and function. Before shopping for a crate consider what the kennel is to be used for so you can select the proper one for your and your dog’s needs. If your dog will be kenneled in your home while you’re gone, buy the largest crate your budget and space will allow. Your dog should be able to stand, lie down, or sit in any position in the crate without restriction. The crate should be roomy enough to accommodate a water bowl or have a water bottle attachment. If your dog will need a kennel only for an occasional short trip, you might compromise slightly on size. If you have a puppy, choose a crate size that will accommodate his as an adult and allow enough room for him to stand, lie down, or sit in any position in the crate without restriction.

Some dogs have a canny ability to ability to escape confinement, so make sure the door on the crate you choose latches securely. It shouldn’t bend or pop open when you put pressure on it from the inside. Also, a dog can strangle if he squeezes his head between the door and its frame while the crate is latched.

Wire frame crates
Wire frame crates are made from heavy gauge wire or stainless steel on all six sides. This increases ventilation and visibility for your pet. Many types of crate can be collapsed and folded up for storage or transport. When selecting a crate of this type, consider the size of the wire, be sure your dogs paws won’t fall through the bottom grid. Check for any sharp edges. Check the doors to see if they are spring loaded, these doors can snap shut on a paw or tail.

Advantages of wire crates
Available in collapsible or folding models
Offers lots of visibility and ventilation
Crate covers available to increase insulation on cooler days and increase privacy for dogs that prefer a more confined environment to relax
Suitable for car travel
Easy to clean

Disadvantages of wire crates:
Not approved for airline travel
Can be heavy: This might not be a big issue for smaller crates, but is something to keep in mind for the larger crates

Solid (Plastic) kennels
Plastic kennels are most commonly used for your dog’s travel needs. They are sturdy and have solid bottoms. Usually only the sides are slotted for ventilation. Most of these crates have separate tops and bottoms that are assembled and secured with nuts and screws. The front of the crate frame supports a wire door. They are easy to take apart for cleaning and storage. This type of kennel also provides a greater degree of protection for your dog if something should fall on the kennel or if there is any impact. Plastic crates are the standard for air travel.

Advantages of plastic dog crates:
Provide some degree of insulation which can be valuable in cold or wet climates.
Can be airline-approved: Many plastic crates are airline-approved.
Can be stored or used as a dog bed: You can find many plastic crates that come apart for storage. Some are even designed to allow the top to be removed so you can use the bottom as a dog bed.
Usually light weight: Even a bigger plastic dog crate can be exceptionally light, which is something to keep in mind if you travel a lot or need to move the crate often.

Disadvantages of plastic dog crates:
Less ventilation and air movement
May increase feelings of isolation
Plastic material can trap odors
Can’t fold flat

Soft-sided Kennels
A variation to the wire crate is the soft side kennel. The sides are made from breathable fabric material and are ventilated with nylon netting. Being light weight and collapsible they are very portable. Their disadvantage is that they offer no protection against impact and can be penetrated by sharp objects, thus they are not suitable for use in cars, airline travel or for dogs that dig or chew while crated.

Advantages of soft kennels:
Light weight, portable, easy to set up & take down
Can be used as an everyday crate

Disadvantages of soft kennels:
Not approved for airline travel
Not suitable for use in cars
Pet must be well crate trained

Useful crate accessories
Once you’ve chosen the right dog crate for your pet, you can make it more inviting with a few simple accessories.

Crate bedding or crate pad
Be sure to choose bedding that’s both durable and washable. Many beds, including bumper style beds or pillow beds can often be found in sizes that fit most crates and can add an extra level of comfort

Crate Cover
Crate covers make wire dog crates more den-like and give your dog extra privacy. They also block outside distractions, which can be useful if your dog barks or whines while he’s in a wire crate.

Water bowl or water bottle

Crate fan
Crate fans provide a refreshing airflow for pets whilst travelling or while at home. Fans circulate the air, removing warm air from the cage interior, and can help to protect pet from overheating. Some feature an optional freezer pack insert to add extra cooling power

Dog leads comes in variety of sizes and styles suitable for any type and breed of dog. In choosing the right dog lead, there are certain factors you should consider to make sure that it is suitable and comfortable for your puppy. Also, you should have more than one lead: Even a quality lead can break, be lost, or get chewed up during training. Have a back-up, or two, in case something unexpected happens.

Material

Leads come in many different materials, the most common are nylon, leather and cotton. When choosing a material consider the flexibility of the lead. If the lead is too hard or too stiff it will be uncomfortable for the dog and impractical for you.

Nylon Lead

The most popular lead is the nylon lead. Its low price tag, along with the variety of colors and designs makes it a popular item. They are used in every day situations as well as dog training. the drawback is that nylon can be rough on hands with extended use.

Leather Lead

Leather leads are attractive, strong and generally get softer and better with use. But if your dog will be around water often, a leather dog leash won’t hold up as well as a nylon one.

Cotton Lead

There are also leads made out of cotton, which are easier on the hands than nylon. Cotton training leads can be bought in very long lengths, making them ideal for training outside.

Another variety of cotton leads are the cotton canvas leads. They come in a variety of colors and styles, such as the one pictured - from Puchi designer petwear

Size

Width

The size of the lead depends on the size of your dog and personal preference. The bigger your dog, the wider his leash should be. If you’re choosing a leash for a puppy, buy with his adult size in mind whenever possible.

Length

One good factor to consider is the length of the lead. It is of course important to know how long the dog lead will be so that it won’t throttle your dog, and of course you don’t have to stop to much with a longer lead.

Styles of Collars

Consider for which activity you are planning on using the collar. Get a flat collar if the fur of your dog is short to leave your dog’s neck unmarked. Wide padded collars are not only comfortable for your dog, but also safer than slimmer collars in terms of preventing damage to the windpipe. Round dog collar for long haired dogs to keep the hair from lying flat and not break.

Buckle collars

The buckle collar will have a metal or plastic buckle on it, somewhat similar to a belt. The buckle makes the collar size adjustable. These collars are available in many different materials, as well as a wide variety of colors and patterns. A properly fitted flat buckle collar will be somewhat snug; however, you should be able to easily fit two fingers between your pet’s neck and the collar. A flat buckle collar that is too tight can cause skin irritation.

Pictured: Crocodile Rocks Collar from Puchi designer petwear

Martingale collars

Another option for a dog with a large neck and a small head is the martingale collar (or Premier collar). The martingale collar has a loop that connects two ends of a flat collar and can be made of nylon, leather or chain. A pull on this loop will cause the collar to tighten only as far as the
ends of the flat collar, thereby reducing the opportunity for choking or damage to the trachea.

Slip collars

These are usually made of nylon or leather and have rings at either end - or they are made of metal chain, so called choke collars. When a slip collar is put on properly, pulling on the leash causes the collar to cinch up like a noose and then release after a correction is given. These are generally used for training purposes only.

Head halters

The halter-style collar controls the dog’s head but does not restrict its ability to pant, drink, or grasp objects. Head halters (sold under brand names such as Halti or Gentle Leader), are similar in design to a halter for a horse. This muzzle-like device fastens around the back of the neck and over the top of the muzzle, giving more control over a dog’s direction and the intensity of pulling on a leash than collars that fit strictly around the neck. Pressure on this type of collar pulls the dog’s head towards the handler.
Bear in mind though that injury can result from improper use of the head halter; if a dog is jerked suddenly by the leash attached to the head halter, the dog’s neck is pulled sharply to the side, which might result in neck injury.

Material

Dog collars come in a wide range of materials with leather and nylon being the most common popular. Lined collars (such as fleece lined martingale collars) are increasing in popularity.. Not only are they fashionable but they are also very comfortable for your dog.

Leather

Leather collars generally get softer with use, though depending on their finish and use they may stretch or crack as they age. Cleaning leather collars simply using soap and water will dry out the leather, and shorten its useful life. To prevent this from happening, be sure to apply leather conditioner or oil to the collar or other approved cleaning products designed for leather.

Nylon

Nylon collars are less likely to break or stretch than leather collars. They can be cleaned by simply using soap and water.

Sizing

To obtain the perfect size, provide an allowance by inserting your two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck.